In the heart of western Kenya: a trip to the Kakamega Forest

GrünhyliaIn the heart of western Kenya, where the sun bathes the landscape in shades of gold, lies the Kakamega Forest – a realm full of ancient trees, vibrant birdlife and secrets that whisper in the rustling of leaves.

Before dawn, in the light of the moonlight, I make my way to a small hill on the edge of the forest. After a little more than an hour of strenuous walking, I made it, just in time. A little out of breath, I stand on the highest point far and wide and enjoy the view of a wonderful sunrise over the forest of Kakamega in western Kenya. Here from “Lirhanda Hill” you have a good overview of large parts of the approximately 120 km² forest reserve. It is one of the last remaining rainforests in Kenya. The forest is known to many birders and scientists as the remnants of a formerly closed forest belt that long ago stretched from West to East Africa. This history makes it more similar to the lowland rainforests of Central Africa than other forests in Kenya. Among the flora and fauna of the forest there are numerous elders that one would otherwise only encounter in the jungles of Cameroon or the Congo. Many animal species can be observed here better than anywhere else in East Africa, and some are even restricted to this forest.

The morning roar of the Guerezas or Colobus Monkeys (Colobus guereza), one of seven species of monkeys that live here, can be heard from the forest below me. The males announce their presence to each other in order to avoid unnecessary territorial fights. Once one of the animals starts doing this, the males from neighboring family groups quickly join in the concert from all sides. There is a deafening noise that then fills the entire forest. In addition to the guerezas, it is primarily the Moustached Guenon or Moustached Monkey (Cercopithecus cephus) and the Putty-nosed monkeys or White-nosed Guenons (Cercopithecus nictitans) that can be seen fairly regularly.

As I enter the edge of the forest, I am greeted by a symphony of bird songs echoing through the tall trees. My eyes widen in wonder as I admire the kaleidoscope of colors fluttering between the branches. There are sunbirds, turacos and other shy forest dwellers here.

The day has just begun and I go on a photo stalk down from the mountain into the semi-darkness of the forest, where the day has not yet fully arrived. The dark forest floor is only brightened up by occasional spots of light. You should look out for snakes in such places, as they are plentiful in Kakamega, including numerous poisonous snakes. However, you rarely see the animals. While there is something to see or do in the Kakamega rainforest for every nature lover, the main attraction for many is and remains the area’s bird life. There are many special features among the over 340 recorded species, and quite a few ornithologists travel halfway around the world to do this.

Whether the Ansorge’s Greenbul (Eurillas or Andropadus ansorgei) or the Chapin’s Apalis (Sylvietta or Apalis chapini), the rare Blue-headed Bee-eater (Merops muelleri) or the Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye (Platysteira concreta) that lives in the dense undergrowth, whether a Green Hylia (Hylia prasina) or a Hairy-breasted Barbet (Tricholaema hirsuta), exotic Grey Parrots (Psittacus erithacus) or colorful Bar-tailed Trogons (Apaloderma vittatum) or the impressive Yellowbill (Ceuthmochares aereus), the forest offers unforgettable encounters for almost every ornithologist. But observing birds and other animals is not easy in the very dense and high forest. You should always expect that you will only see a fraction of its inhabitants, and often the very ones that the observer most wants to see escape the observer’s gaze. If you want to avoid disappointment, you should definitely hire one of the local guides, some of whom are extremely knowledgeable. With their help you can also familiarize yourself with the trail system before setting off on your own.

Accompanied by the dappled rays of sun shining through the dense canopy of leaves, you set off on paths that wind their way into the heart of Kakamega. Every step reveals a new facet of this mystical place. Butterflies dance in the rays of light and the air is filled with the sweet scent of flowers.

In order to meet the growing demand for top images of the rarer species of Palaearctic Bird-lens.com has specifically made trips to remote places. Additionally every chance is used, if a rare bird is around the homeground. This to do everything to ensure excellent photos of the Birds of the Western Palearctic . The yield of pictures also of rare Western Palaearctic birds is very good. There are other nice images of birds, that you will find behind the tab “Picture Shop“. Just give a notice if you need a picture of a bird which is not online.

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